Method for assembling shoe uppers



May 16, 1967 c BATCHELDER ET AL 3,319,277

METHOD FOR ASSEMBLING SHOE UPPERS 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed May 28, 1964FIG.

INVENTORS CHARLES E BATCHELDER JEROME A.RUBlCO ATTORNEYS y 1967 c. FBATCHELDER ET AL 3,319,277

METHOD FOR ASSEMBLING SHOE UFPERS 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed May 28, 1964FIG. 4

INVENTORS CHARLES F. BATCHELDER JEROME ARUBICO May 16, 1967 c, F.BATCHELDER ET AL 3,319,277

METHOD FOR ASSEMBLING SHOE UFPERS sheets-Sh t Filed 1964 FIG.5

INVENTORS CHARLES E BATCHELDER JEROME A. RUBICO ww ATTORNEY-S May 16,1967 c BATCHELDER ET Al- 3,319,277

METHOD FOR ASSEMBLING snoa UPPERS 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed May 28, 1964 9m El FIG.7

INVENTORS CHARLES E BATCHELDER JEROME A. RUBICO BY [CwW /fi ATTO R NEYSUnited States Patent 3,319,277 METHGE) FOR ASSEMBLING SHOE UPPERSCharles F. lliatchelder, Milton, and Jerome A. Rubico, Boston, Mass,assignors to Batchelder Rubico, Inc., Boston, Mass, a corporation ofMassachusetts Filed May 28, 1964, Ser. No. 371,023 13 Claims. (Cl.12-145) This invention comprises a novel method of controlling theheight and alignment of the back portion of a shoe upper during theoperations of assembling it on a last, preparatory to lasting it to theinsole of a shoe. The method is applicable to boots or shoes of any typeor height, provided they contain an insole. It may be designated asPrecision Tab Assembly.

The present practice of most shoe factories makes the first shoemakingoperation that of assembling a stitched upper and a counter on a last tothe bottom of which a fitted insole has already been attached. In mostcases the assembling operator must insert a freshly cemented counterinto the counter pocket between the counter lining and the back of theupper. He then inserts the last within the stitched upper and completeshis assembly by a nailing or tacking operation. In handassembling theassembler drives by hand two tacks through the back of the lastingmargin of the upper and the back end of the insole, which tacks areclinched over by the metal heel plate on the last bottom. In machineassembly the machine drives these same two tacks, and commonly alsodrives a nail through the back of the upper and into the last near thetop of the back seam.

These tacking operations perform the following functions:

( 1) Temporary attachment of the upper to the last.

(2) Establishment of the back height of the lasted shoe.

(3) Alignment of the back seam of the upper on the last. The tackingincorporates permanently into the shoe the results of the operatorsjudgment and skill in as sembling the back of the upper to the desiredheight and alignment. Let us examine the problems which face him inpresent practice.

First, the depth to which the assembler inserts the counter depends onhis judgment and experience, as he has no match-marks to guide him.Second, he must gauge the height of the upper on the last by a mark onthe spine of the last, or by the amount of the lasting margin of lining,counter and upper which he folds down over the back end of the insole.Third, he must gauge the alignment of the back seam while the upper isheld in loose contact with the last. He then must place the last, heldupside down with the upper loosely draped thereto, on a spindle eitherof a lasting machine or on his bench. The tacking is then done, bymachine or by hand, while the shoe is so positioned that the operatorcannot see the top of the upper or the top of its back seam.

The assembling machines now commonly used in shoe factories are littlemore than mechanical nail drivers. Their design forces the operator tofinalize his work by a nailing operation while he cannot see the onlyguide mark he has. The hand assemblers are in nearly as bad a fix. Thenatural result is that many shoes go through the factories with pairs ofunequal back heights, and often with the back seams out of properalignment. These faults, incorporated in the shoes at the firstoperation in the lasting room, make some of the subsequent operationsdifiicult, and add to the cost of the shoes.

Many attempts have been made in the past to provide on a shoe last amechanical means of controlling the back height and the alignment of ashoe upper. These till 3,319,277 Patented May 16, 1967 "ice past effortsat control have won only limited acceptance by shoe manufacturers,primarily for two reasons:

(1) The use of some of these height controlling means introduces anadded labor operation, and

(2) The controlling means must be removed from the last when themanufacturer wants to use this same last for a boot with a higher back.

Our present invention requires no modification of the lasts on which theshoes are made. Its novel features are limited to the ways in whichcertain components of the shoes are prepared and assembled into thefinished product.

The pattern makers who lay out the components of shoe uppers take careto provide match-marks on each of these parts so that they may beassembled and stitched together accurately. But in their design of thoseedges which are to be pulled over a last and lasted to an insole thepattern makers have never provided anything more than a generous lastingallowance to compensate for the variations caused by the lack ofuniformity inherent in the present assembling procedures. Theseprocedures have been used for many years, without any improvement.

The primary purpose of our present invention is to provide the shoemakerwith a means of assembling on the last with uniform accuracy 21 stitchedor closed upper and an insole. We have discovered a shoemaking method bywhich this result may be achieved, a method which controls both theheight and the lateral alignment of they back seam of the upper in asingle operation. The

the various parts of the upper are assembled and stitched together. Theessential feature of our invention is the use of one of the componentparts of the upper, preferably the one that is in contact with the backspine of the last when on the last, as a measuring means to measure downalong the back of the last spine and past the back end of the insole,and thence forwardly to a predetermined point on the under side of theinsole.

In the design of any shoe the desired height of the back and thethicknesses of the specified components are all predeterminable.Therefore the distance comprising the sum of the back height measuredperipherally on the curve of the spine of the last, the thickness of theinsole and any other between-substance, and a specified measurementforward from the back end of the insole can also be predetermined. Withthis total distance being determined for any given shoe, it can bereproduced in the component of the upper, or a combination of suchcomponents.

The practice of this invention may vary slightly, depending on whichcomponent is used as the measuring means. Either the counter lining orthe outer integument of the upper itself may serve this purpose.Similarly, if, prior to the assembling of the upper on the last, thecounter is cemented or otherwise attached to the upper at a pre-markedheight and center line, the counter could be a part of the measureddistance. The practice, but not the principle, for shoes withflat-lasted heel seats will be different from that used in shoes weltedaround the heel seat. The procedures and variations will be readilyapparent to one skilled in the art from the following description of apreferred example.

We prefer to use the counter lining for the measuring means. The liningis the innermost component of the upper contact with the back of thelast, and one which often causes wrinkles in the finished shoe if notdrawn tight to the last, a drawback which is practically eliminated byour new assembling procedure. The counter linings are commonly stitchedto the back parts of the uppers along the top seam. As it is verydifiicult to match the top edge of the pre-cut lining exactly to the 3varying curve of the top of the upper, it is common practice to let thisstitching follow somewhat below the upper edge of the lining, and totrim oil? a marginal top strip of the lining of varying width either byundertrimming done simultaneously with this stitching, or subsequentlyas a separate operation. Therefore, if the counter lining is to be usedas the means of measuring the back height of an upper, the measurementmust be established and marked on the lining after it has been stitchedto the upper. Another consideration in this connection is that for manyor most shoes the counter lining is prepared to fit the domed shape ofthe back end of the last by removing a vertical gore of material fromthe center of the lower half of the lining and then closing that gore bystitching its edges together.

Two alternate methods are available for fitting a counter lining toserve also as the means of controlling the back height of an upper andthe vertical alignment of its back seam. First, a tab of any suitablematerial may be stitched or otherwise attached to the lower axiallycentral portion of the lasting margin of the lining. This tab shouldextend downwardly, and hence forwardly after it is lasted under theinsole, about one inch beyond the normal lower edge of the lining. Thistab should preferably be attached to the lining before the latter isstitched to the upper. The end of the tab should carry a match mark orindex mark such as V-notch, located on the center line of the lining ata predetermined distance from the central point of the top edge of theupper. Alternatively a match mark may be cut into the lasting margin ofthe lining without the added tab. This alternate step saves the cost ofattaching a tab, but makes the practice of our process, as describedbelow, a little more exacting.

The underside of the insole which is exposed on the last bottom shouldbe marked with a transverse score line at a predetermined distance,preferably an inch and oneeighth forward from its back end, and a centerline. In assembling the upper on the last line the index mark on thelining is drawn forward to the registration or intersection of the gaugemark on the insole bottom, and the lower margin of the lining is thenfastened to the insole, by tacking, stapling or other means.

The correct height and alignment of the back of the shoe is establishedby the following:

(1) Correct measurement from the top of the upper to the index mark onthe bottom of the lining.

(2) Correct positioning of this index mark to the gauge mark on theinsole, both longitudinally and laterally.

The stapling of the counter liner to the bottom of the insole is nothingmore than what is now done with the bottom tacks used in the presentassembling procedures. But it should be noted that by our method thisattaching is done only after the operator has brought the back of theupper into its designed relationship with the insole, bothlongitudinally and laterally, with predetermined measurements and matchmarks. As done heretofore the operator has no visible guide marks and amini-mum of control of the upper at the time of nailing.

The procedure for measuring the predetermined distance on the counterlining and the formation of the index mark is of secondary importance.The two operations can be performed simultaneously, together withaccurate control of the centering of the match mark, by a relativelysimple mechanism herein shown. The marking of a score line and centerline on an insole is a simple matter. For shoes to be welted around theheel seat this score line could be located on the feather at the backend of the insole, using the alternate method of matchmarking the liningin its lasting margin without the added tab.

We prefer to make the tab about one and three-eigh-ths inches long andabout three-quarters of an inch wide, and to stitch one end of the tabto the lasting margin of the counter lining after the lining has beengored and the gore closed by stitching. If the lining is not to begored, the tab may be an integral extension of the lining. A tab of thissize is long enough to be drawn over a sewing rib on the back end of aninsole in a shoe which is to be welted around the heel seat, and thenbrought down to a gauge mark in the insole inside the rib. For shoeswith welted heel seats the tabs may be cut away inside the sewing ribafter heel lasting operation so the channel guide of the welting machinewill have a free passage around the heel seat. A tab of the sizespecified above provides ample material to allow for normal variationsin stitching it to the lining, and it also gives the assembler a goodmeans of drawing the lining smoothly over the end of the insole.

Our new method as described above is readily adapted to the use ofeither fiat or pre-molded counters, which latter have specificadvantages for use with welted heel seats.

Better lasting of counters can be readily achieved with our new methodof assembly which establishes a center line visible on the underside ofthe back end of each insole. If each counter is likewise marked with anindex mark in the center of its lower edge the assembler has a positiveguide to the correct lateral positioning of the counter. As statedabove, it is possible to use the counter as a part of the measuringmeans. To do so it is convenient to measure and mark the counter lining,or the upper, for the correct positioning of the center point of the topedge of the counter, and to cement the counter thereto before assemblingthe upper on the last.

It will also be noted that our new method is applicable to shoes orboots of any height, regardless of the height of the lasts on which theyare lasted, and that no mark or score line is needed on the spines ofthe lasts.

We have devised a simple mechanical means of accomplishing in oneoperation the measuring of the back height of an upper and ofestablishing on the tab attached thereto the desired index mark, withassurance that this mark will represent correctly the height and centeralignment of the back seam of the closed upper. The basic elements ofthis measuring and marking mechanism are, in combination, a markingmeans and a specially designed horn which supports the upper and whichprovides the measuring and aligning means. We prefer to have the markingmeans arranged to act downwardly on the tab, with the horn extendingforwardly and substantially horizontally therefrom towards the operator.

The marking means may be either a simple stamp which simultaneouslymarks on the tab a transverse score line and a longitudinal center line,or a pinking knife which cuts a V-notch in the end of the tab. If thetab is marked with the combined score line and center line, each lineshould extend to the edge of the tab so that the lines can be matched tosimilar lines of a gauge mark on the bottom of the insole. We prefer tomark the tab with a pinked notch having a rounded point which can becentered over the intersection of the score line and center line on theinsole.

The measurement accomplished by this mechanism is a distance measured onthe inside of a curving line defined by the intersection of atheoretical plane on the centerline of the shoe passed verticallythrough the irregularly domed back of the upper, plus a distance whichcan be measured flat on the tab. This back curve of the upper is obviouson a finished shoe, but is most indefinite in a closed upper before itis lasted. The curvature changes as the sides of the back of theunlasted up- .per are drawn towards each other. The interior verticalcurvature of the back of the upper is further complicated by thestitched backseam which closes the backs of most uppers, and often alsoby a second backseam closing a gore cut in the lower half of manycounter linings.

The horn is a key element which makes ossible the simultaneousmeasurement, alingment and marking of the back of a closed shoe upper.In our mechanism the back of the upper is draped over the born, with thetab back under the marking device, and the top edge of the upper forwardtowards the operator. If the horn is made with parallel sides and withits top edge made with a horizontal back end which merges into the anvilunder the pinking blade or stamp which marks the tab, an upwardly curvedportion in the area which supports the interior of the upper, and aforepart which slopes downwardly, we have found that a horn soconstructed will conform to the interior back curve of a shoe upper thatis drawn over it. It is obvious that the irregular top cont-our of thehorn as above described reproduces the interior contour of the back ofthe shoe and the tab attached thereto, and therefore the desiredmeasurement can be established on the top surface of the horn. Weprovide on the top of the born a measuring scale, positioned so that itszero point is the location of the gauge mark to be printed on or pinkedin the tab. The control measurement is readily obtained by sliding theupper along the horn until the top edge of the upper overlies thedesired measurement as shown on the scale. With the upper in thatposition, the designed measurement is established in the tab by pinkingor printing. As an added help we have also provided a movable indicatorso that each shoe of a pair, or several pairs calling for the sameheight, can be more easily match-marked uniforrnly.

The horn is also the key to the correct alignment of the index mark inthe tab, and therefore also the correct vertical alignment of thebackseam of the upper in the completed shoe. When the upper is drawndown over the horn the alignment of the backsearn, and therefore alsothe mark to be made in the tab, will be most obvious to and controllableby the operator. With this procedure, any inaccuracy in the attaching ofthe tab to the lasting margin of the lining or other component is of noconsequence, as the index mark will be automatically centered.

The establishment of the gauge mark on the bottom of the insole issimple. We prefer to make this mark with a transverse score line longenough to extend to each side beyond the sides of the tab which willoverlie this mark, and a centerline long enough to extend forwardlybeyond the end of the tab. For shoes to be welted around the heel thescore line could be located on the feather at the back end of theinsole, using the alternate method of match-marking the lining in itslasting margin without the added tab. We do not prefer to do so. Weprefer to locate the transverse score line one and one-eighth inchforward of the back end of the insole.

Our process of precision tab assembly will be most advantageous andeconomical to shoemakers making shoes incorporating the skeletal randinsoles described in our co-pending applications Ser. Nos. 278,568 and310,029. In the earlier of those constructions the core portion of theinsole is, and in the latter at least the heel portion of the core, maybe removed prior to assembly, thereby leaving the center of the heelseat area of the last bottom exposed through the window thus provided inthe insole. For shoes so made no gauge mark need be marked on the bottomof each insole, as a permanent gauge mark may be incorporated on theheel seat area of each last in a location where the gauge mark will bevisible through the window. This variation in the practice of ourpresent invention thereby saves the cost of marking each insole.

From the above outline of our novel method it will be obvious that eachsize of shoes will call for a different measurement which will also bevaried by any difference in thickness of insoles. As a practicalprocedure it is not difficult to specify the correct measurement foreach size and style. Sometimes insoles are somewhat longer or shorterthan the bottoms of the lasts to which they are to be tacked. Insoletackers commonly match the in- 6 sole to the toe of the last and to letthe heel end fall where it may. In our method such inaccuracies may beeasily compensated for by the assembler who folds the bottom of thelining and its tab over the b ack of the insole.

The features and advantages of our invention will be best understood andappreciated from the following description of several examples selectedfor purposes of illustration and shown in the accompanying drawings, inwhich FIG. 1 is a view in perspective of the rear end of an upperassembled upon a last in accordance with our improved method,

FIG. 2 is a corresponding view in longitudinal section,

FIGS. 3 and 4 are views corresponding to FIG. 1 and showing the indextab attached to the counter rather than the lining,

FIG. 5 is a fragmentary view of an upper with the index tab attached tothe outer integument thereof,

FIG. 6 is a fragmentary sectional view showing the upper of FIG. 5 on alast, and

FIGS. 7, 8 and 9 are views respectively in plan, cross section andlongitudinal section showing the mechanism for measuring the upper andmarking its tab.

In FIGS. 1 and 2 we have indicated how our improved assembling methodmay be carried out when the index tab is attached to the lining ply ofthe upper. In these figures is shown the rear end of a last 16 havingthe usual metallic heel plate 11 and carrying an insole 12 which hasbeen accurately located on the last bottom and secured by insole tacks13 of which one only is shown.

The last 10 is first placed within the upper which as herein showncomprises an outer integument 14 having a back seam 15, a fitted liningply 16 and a molded counter 17. These parts are united by the usual topseam.

The insole 12 is provided with a gauge mark in the shape of a cross 12of which the longitudinal line indicates transversely the exact centerof the insole. The transverse line of the cross is located at apredetermined distance from the desired location of the top of the upperupon the back of the last measured as above explained.

The tab 18 is shown as stitched to the lining ply 16- at the center ofits concave edges and as carrying an index mark in the form of a V-notch19 of which the apex is located a measured distance from the top edge ofthe upper equal to the distance indicated by the gauge mark 12 of theinsole.

The assembling operation is now carried out by drawing lining 16 withthe tab 18 forwardly upon the last until the index mark 19 of the tabregisters with the gauge mark 12' of the insole and then attaching thetab to the insole 12 by a staple 20. The tab 18 thus becomes a linkingmeans between the upper the insole. In this manner the top line of theupper is positively and accurately located at exactly the desired heighton the back of the last and the back seam 15 coincides accurately withthe centerline of the heel end of the last. The upper is thereforeperfectly assembled for pulling-over and other conventional shoemakingoperations.

In FIGS. 3 and 4 we have indicated how our improved assembly method maybe carried out when the index or linking tab is attached to a moldedcounter in the upper.

The insole 12, as before, is provided with the gauge mark 12' in theform of a cross. The tab 21 is provided with the V-shaped index mark 22and attached to the counter 17 at the center of its inturned flange. Thecounter itself is adhesively secured in the upper between the outerintegument 14 and the lining ply. The index mark 22 of the tab is nowbrought into registration with the gauge mark 12 of the insole and thetab secured by a staple 23 to the insole.

In FIG. 5 our method is shown as modified by the employment of an insole28 having a window 29 formed in its heel seat which gives a rand-likeaspect to the 7 insole. A portion of the last bottom is thus exposed toview and on this is placed in measured location a gauge mark 28 in theform of a cross.

The tab 26 carrying the V-shaped index mark 27 is attached to the outerintegument 14 of the upper. The tab 26 is drawn forwardly to registerthe index mark 27 with the gauge mark 28 on the insole and then the tabmay be stapled to that portion of the recessed insole at the rear of thewindow 29.

In FIG. 6 the index tab or link 24 is shown as stitched to the outerintegument 14 of the upper. It is assumed to have been drawn forwardlyto register its index mark with a gauge mark on the insole l2 and tohave been attached to the insole in that section by a staple 25.

In FIGS. 79 are shown the operative elements of a machine useful foraccurately measuring the upper with its attached tab and for marking orstamping the tab to indicate the desired critical distance from the topline.

The machine has a stationary bed 31 to which is attached a bed plate 32formed as a part of a forwardly projecting horn 30. The horn hasparallel side walls as indicated in FIG. 9 and a transversely curved topWall over which the upper M, 16 may be draped. The top surface of thehorn 36 is also curved longitudinally to approximately the curvature ofthe inside of the closed upper at its back seam.

An anvil or platen 33 is fastened to the bed plate 32 in line with areciprocating head herein shown as carrying a V-shaped pinking knife 34adapted to cut in a tab a V-shaped notch, such as the notch 19 shown inFIG. 1.

Upon the top surface of the horn 3th is placed a scale 35 readingoutwardly from a zero point that corresponds to the exact center of theindex mark to be formed in or upon the tab. The horn is also grooved forthe reception of a sliding gauge 36 which may be set in cooperation withthe scale 35 at the desired position in the horn.

As shown in FIG. 8 the closed upper 14 is placed on the horn 30 with itstop edge against the gauge 36 and its tab 17 in position upon the anvil33 where the knife has been operated to form the V-shaped index mark.

Having thus disclosed our invention and described in detail illustrativeexamples of putting it into effect, we claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent:

1. The method of assembling on a last and insole a shoe upper comprisingan outer ply and a lining ply having a centrally disposed tab with anindex mark therein at a fixed peripheral distance from the top seam ofthe upper; the method comprising the steps of forming a heel-seat gaugemark at the same peripheral distance from the desired location of thetop seam on the back of the last, as the distance indicated by the indexmark on the tab, bringing the index mark of the tab into fixed relationto the heel-seat gauge mark, and attaching the tab as thus located tothe insole.

2. The method of assembling on a last with an attached insole a shoeupper comprising an outer ply and a lining ply secured together by aline of top stitching and a centrally disposed tab on one of said plieshaving an index mark at a fixed peripheral distance from the top scam;the method comprising the steps of forming on the insole a gauge mark atthe same peripheral distance from the desired location of the top seamwith respect to the top of the last, registering the index mark of thetab with the gauge mark of the insole, and attaching the tab to theinsole.

3. The method described in claim 2, further characterized by the stepsof forming the insole gauge mark so as to indicate the transverse centerof the insole and fastening the tab with its index mark in registrationtherewith.

4. The method described in claim 2, further characterized by the step offorming the insole gauge mark so as to indicate both the transversecenter of the insole and a predetermined longitudinal length of theupper from the top seam to and including the tab, and then fastening thetab with its index mark in registration both transversely andlongitudinally with said gauge mark.

5. The method of assembling on a last with an attached insole a closedshoe upper having a centrally disposed tab projecting from its loweredge and carrying an index mark at a predetermined peripheral distancefrom the top of the upper; the method comprising the steps of forming onthe heel seat of the insole a gauge mark at a predetermined peripheraldistance from the desired location of the top seam of the upper on thelast, drawing the tab over the insole and thereby registering the twomarks and then fastening the tab to the insole preparatory to lastingthe upper.

6. The method of claim 5 further characterized by having the saidpredetermined distance equal to the sum of (l) the designated height ofthe top of the upper as measured on its interior vertical curve; (2) thethickness of the insole and heel pad to be placed in the upper; and (3)the distance from the back end of the insole to the gauge mark marked onits bottom.

7. The shoemaking method as described in claim 5 in which the first stepis the attachment of the upper to the insole by a linking means formedas an extension of the central lower portion of a component part of theback end of the upper.

8. The method of claim 7 further characterized by having a gauge markmarked on the exposed side of the insole at a predetermined distancefrom its back end.

9. The method of claim 8 further characterized by having the said gaugemark incorporate both a transverse score line and a longitudinal centerline.

It The method of controlling the back height of the heel portion of ashoe upper during its assembly to an insole which comprises: providingon a component part of the back of the upper a linking means having anindex mark near its outer end at a predetermined distance below the topedge of the back of the upper; drawing the said linking means over theback end of an insole having on its under side a gauge mark located at apredetermined distance forward from the back end of said insole untilthe index mark on the linking means is in overlying registration withthe gauge mark on the insole; and thereupon fastening the upper to theinsole.

11. The method of controlling both the back height and the lateralalignment of the heel portion of a shoe upper during its assembly to aninsole which comprises: providing on a component part of the back of theupper a linking means having near its outer end a gauge mark locatedboth a predetermined distance below the top edge of the upper andcoincident With the center line of the back of the upper; drawing thesaid linking means over the back end of an insole having a gauge marklocated both a predetermined distance forward from the back end of thesaid insole and coincident with the center line thereof until the indexmark on the linking means is in overlying registration with the gaugemark on the insole; and thereupon fastening the upper to the insole.

12. The method of controlling the back height of the heel portion of ashoe upper during its assembly upon an insole having an opening througha portion of its heel seat area, which comprises: marking on the bottomof a last the gauge mark; temporarily attaching the abovedescribedinsole to the bottom of the said last; providing on a component part ofthe back of the upper a linking means having an index mark near itsouter end at a predetermined distance below the top edge of the upper;drawing the said linking means over the back of the abovesaid insole andlast until the index mark on the linking means is in overlyingregistration with the gauge mark on the said last; and thereuponfastening the upper to the insole.

13. The method of controlling both the back height and the lateralalignment of the heel portion of a shoe upper during its assembly to aninsole having an opening through a portion of its heel seat area, whichcomprises: marking on the bottom of a last a gauge mark; temporarilyattaching an insole to the bottom of said last; providing on a componentof the upper with a linking means having near its outer end an indexmark indicating both a predetermined distance from the top edge of theupper and the center line of the back of the upper; drawing the linkingmeans over the back end of the above said insole and last until theindex mark on the linking means is in overlying registration With thegauge mark on the said last; and thereupon fastening the upper to theinsole.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS Copeland 12-145 XMeFeely 12145 Ha-ber et a1. 12l45 Baroni et al 1251 Smith 12-145Kneeland 12129 X Ducklo 1251 Ronza 12-145 Batchelder 12129 X PATRICK D.LAWSON, Primary Examiner. JORDAN FRANKLIN, Examiner.

1. THE METHOD OF ASSEMBLING ON A LAST AND INSOLE A SHOE UPPER COMPRISINGAN OUTER PLY AND A LINING PLY HAVING A CENTRALLY DISPOSED TAB WITH ANINDEX MARK THEREIN AT A FIXED PERIPHERAL DISTANCE FROM THE TOP SEAM OFTHE UPPER; THE METHOD COMPRISING THE STEPS OF FORMING OF HEEL-SEAT GAUGEMARK AT THE SAME PERIPHERAL DISTANCE FROM THE DESIRED LOCATION OF THETOP SEAM ON THE BACK OF THE LAST, AS THE DISTANCE INDICATED BY THE INDEXMARK ON THE TAB, BRINGING THE INDEX MARK OF THE TAB INTO FIXED RELATIONTO THE HEEL-SEAT GAUGE MARK, AND ATTACHING THE TAB AS THUS LOCATED TOTHE INSOLE.